Our Quilt Guild just held a Paint Chip Challenge!  What’s that, you may ask?  Each participant got a paint chip and some simple rules—use three of the colors on your paint chip plus black or white.  Okay, I’m up for that.

Here’s the paint chip I got.

I chose to use the two on the left and the lightest one on the right.  Imagine, I had fabrics in my stash that worked great!

I had seen a tutorial for a cute table runner on the Knitty Bitties blog, so decided to make one.  It starts with half-square-triangles.

Once they were sewn together, I added wide rickrack.

I think the colors are pretty true to the paint chip.

Once the rickrack and borders were on, I layered everything, using the dark purple solid on the back and a scrap of cotton batting that I had left over from another project.

I knew I’d need three threads to quilt with.  I just don’t like light thread on dark fabrics and dark thread on light fabrics!  Once again, my stash—thread stash, that is—came through!

I just did some straight line quilting on my Featherweight.  I used my foot as a guide to quilt a 1/4″ from the edge of the triangles.  For the other rows of quilting, I used the Frixon pen to mark the lines and loved it!

I trimmed away the batting, cut the backing 1″ larger than the top and just did a double fold, bringing the back to the front for the binding.

I wasn’t sure how I wanted to stitch the binding in place so I experimented with a couple of stitches on my Elna.  I decided on the middle stitch, a triple zigzag,but once I started on the actual runner, I had trouble with consistency of size.  So, after about 12″, I decided to tear it out.  Ugh!

Do you know this little trick?  After you’ve cut your stitches with your seam ripper, you can use a lint roller to pick up all the tiny treads!  As you can see, I had a lot!

In the end, I used the buttonhole stitch, and it worked great.

The finished product!

Last fall at the Anna Lena retreat, Mary and Robin had a stack of really fun blocks that they had gotten in a block swap.

Once the blocks started going up on the wall, they drew a lot of attention.  That led to a conversation about block swaps, and before you could say “Crossroads to Jericho” we decided we would do a block swap at our next retreat!

Robin and Mary’s blocks were so striking yet so simple that we decided to do this block for our first swap.  You might want to organize a swap with your friends, too!

Blocks finish at 8-1/2″. Here are the fabric requirements for each block.

Black: 5) 2-1/2” squares

Four different bright prints: 1) 2-1/2” squares of each and 1) 5-1/2” squares of each cut once diagonally.

When you cut your large square diagonally, you will end up with two triangles.  You only need one per color per block, so set half aside for another block.

L
Lay out your squares to form a nine-patch with the black in the middle and on the corners.

Match the triangles to their companion prints.  I love how this forms an arrow.

Once you have the nine-patch sewn together, line it up with one of the triangles as shown below.  Make sure an equal amount of fabric is visible on each side then stitch.  I like to do opposite sides first, press, then do the remaining sides.  On the nine-patches, I press toward the dark.  On the triangles, I press toward the triangle.

Voila!  Your finished block.

If you set the blocks straight, the black forms a chain through the bright arrows.

If you set the blocks on point, the nine-patch is more visible.

Every swap needs a few rules.  Below are ours.  The last one is the most important!

Your pieced block should measure slightly more than 9”.  There’s a little wiggle room here, so blocks can be trimmed to 9”.  If your block is smaller than 9”, it isn’t acceptable.  Either restitch with slightly smaller seams or make another one to swap.

Don’t trim your blocks.  Let the person receiving them do the trimming.

The black can be a solid black, or a black-on-black print, but be sure it “reads” black from a distance.

Bright means bright, clear colors.  Nothing muddy!

You may make all your blocks the same, or use lots of different blacks and brights.

Have fun!

I’m busy making Market samples from my new line of fabric – Bavaria.   Yesterday, I took a break from appliquéing roses to make a laptop sleeve.  I need to go shopping for a big red button and some Velcro for the closure.

Since it will be displayed in the booth at Quilt Market, I didn’t want to put my real laptop in it.  Luckily, my sister recently bought a laptop sleeve, and it came with a nifty foam insert.  Perfect!

This was so simple to make.  Here’s the “formula!”  By the way, this would work for an i-Pad, Kindle or any size notebook!

Measure the width of your laptop and add 2-1/2″.

Measure the height of you laptop, double it an add 5″.

Cut two pieces of fabric and some fusible fleece this size.

Layer and quilt.

Round off the corners on the top edge.  I used a sewing basket lid as my guide!

Cut a strip of binding 2-1/4″ wide and bind the bottom edge.

Fold up the bottom, using your laptop as a guide.  Stitch the edges with a scant 1/4″ seam.

Using more 2-1/4″ binding, bind the sides and top of the sleeve, turning the binding under at the bottom edge to finish.

Voila!  It’s that easy.

Note: I used the Four Flowers print for the lining of my sleeve.  When it was time to quilt the fabrics together, I just followed the path between the clusters of flowers.  No marking!

My latest fabric line, Dolly Dear, is in stores and shipping now.  It has lots of pretty prints, but my favorite is the repeating stripe with the paper dolls and their dresses.

I’ve designed a free pattern for a quit that I think any little girl would love.  The dolls are sewn into the body of the quilt, pockets are added around the outside edges, and the dresses are cut out so you can play dress up!

I thought I’d walk you through the easy steps for making this quilt.  First, cut out three strips of the dolls and “frame” them with the Patsy Posy print.

Sash them with the Pink Marigold fabric.

Add borders of the same pink print.  I know they look really wide, but there’s a reason for that.  We’re going to add pockets!  At this stage, you need to quilt the quilt.  I stippled mine.

Cut pockets and lining using the template provided with the pattern.  The front of the pockets are from the Dress Panel that goes with the line.

I LOVE rickrack, and this seemed like the perfect place to use some!  Put the pocket front and lining right sides together, insert rickrack and stitch edges and bottom.

Turn right sides out, press under 1/4″ at the top and top stitch closed.

You’ll need twelve pockets.  When they’re finished, topstitch down around the sides and bottom.

Fuse some batting scraps to the backs of the dresses and cut them out.

Now you’re ready to tuck them into the pockets….

…or dress the dolls!

I also added rickrack to the binding!  There’s no such thing as too much rickrack, is there?  The kit for this quilt includes the 12-1/2 yards needed!

Here are a few other things made with this fabric line.

This adorable sundress is made with the Tossed Dolls print and lined with the Green Jumble.

The body of this jumper is the fabric I call Bette’s Bouquet, and this pattern is perfect for showing off the doll dresses.  Both these dress samples were made by Renee.

This pattern from Yesterday’s Charm is one of my favorites.  Carol O. made this sample for me.

Nan stitched up the backpack for me.

And I made this quilt, Dress Up Time, from the Dress and Purse panel.  More rickrack–two sizes!!

If you think I’m in my second childhood, you may be right!  But, I must tell you, I didn’t play with dolls in my first childhood, so I’m making up for it now!

I hope you’re taking part in the Summer Bow-Tie Quilt Along.  We’re making a Bow-Tie Block each day of summer!

The previous post on my blog has a tutorial for making the traditional Bow-Tie block–which is a simple Four-Patch with a couple of sew-and-flip corners!

But I thought you might like to learn how to make a 3-Dimensional Bow-Tie!    With this block, the center of the Bow-Tie 3-D.

To make the block, you need:

2) 3-1/2″ squares of light fabric

2) 3-1/2″ squares of dark fabric

1) 3″ square of dark fabric

Normally, all three dark fabrics would be the same, but I thought it was easier to see the construction if I made the center a different print for this tutorial.

Fold the 3″ square in half, wrong sides together.

Place the folded square on a dark 3-1/3″ square.  Long raw edges should be even with the top, and short edge should be at the right side of the dark square.

Place a light 3-1/2″ square on top.

Stitch down the right side, catching the folded square between the 3-1/2″ squares.

Turn squares out of the way, as shown below.

Place edge of folded piece even with edge of  remaining light 3-1/2″ square

Cover with dark 3-1/2″ square.  Stitch.

At this point, your stitched pieces should look like this.  Press the 3-1/2″ squares to the dark.

Line up the top edges of the squares.  As you do this, a little “pocket” will form from the folded piece in the middle.

Pin, lining up the raw edges of the folded piece with the top edge to be stitched.  Stitch.

When you open your block, the 3-D center will be formed!

Voila!

I like to press my last seam open. And, actually, I kind of like the different color center!

Last summer, we had such fun making a Nine-Patch block everyday.  Well, summer is upon us again.  This summer, let’s do Bow Tie blocks! These are soooo simple.  It’s basically a four-patch.  What could be easier?!?

I’ve set up a Facebook page so you can share your progress, post photos and get more ideas on what to do with your blocks.  CLICK HERE to become a fan!

Now for a quick tutorial for a 6″ Bow Tie block

For each block you will need:

1) 3-1/2″ x 7″ light fabric

1) 3-1/2″ x 8-1/2″ dark fabric

Cut the light fabric into 2) 3-1/2″ squares.

Cut the dark fabric into 2) 3-1/2″ squares and 2) 1-1/2″ squares.

Put the two small dark squares on a corner of the light squares.

Sew diagonally from corner to corner on the dark squares.  These are so small, you don’t really need to mark them.  If you’re not comfortable eyeballing them, you can finger press the small squares in half and sew down the crease.

Trim 1/4″ away from the stitching.

Press the little dark squares over.  Now, all you have to do is piece your four-patch!

Stitch along the vertical seams.  Press toward the dark fabric.

Join the horizontal seams and you’re done!

I do like to press the last seam open to reduce bulk in the center.

If you want to make 3″ finished blocks, cut your “large” squares 2″ and your “small” squares 1″.  In fact, you might want to make some of both sizes.  They can be very cute in the same quilt!

Does this look like a Nine-Patch???

Or this?

How about this??

All these layouts were done with these six blocks.

After I cut them in half!

Your center blocks don’t have to be solid, or even all the same color.  I just did that to make the illustrations clearer.

I hope you’re having fun with the Summer Nine-Patch Project.

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I just had an email from one of my newsletter subscribers reminding me of a speedy way to make nine-patches.  I’d seen it done years ago, and forgotten all about it.  With this method, you get two nine-patches at a time.  How perfect for our Summer Nine-Patch Project! Now you can make two blocks a day faster than making one block the traditional way.  That means you’ll either end up with twice as many blocks, or you’ll only have to sew every other day!  Thanks, Peggy, for the reminder.

Here’s a tutorial on how to make the Two-For-One Nine-Patch blocks.  The example is for a 9″ finished block, but at the end of the tutorial, I’ll give you the formula (and chart) so you can make any size block you want.

1.  Layer a light and dark fabric, right sides together, and cut a 10-1/2″ square.

2. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, join the squares together on two opposite sides.

3. Take the to your cutting board and measure in 3-1/2″ from one stitched side.  Cut.

4. Measure in 3-1/2″ from the other stitched side and cut.  You will have two stitched segments and two unstitched strips.

5. Press the stitched segments toward the dark fabric.  Add a contrasting strip to one side of each block.

6. Stitch and press toward the dark fabric.

7. Place the two segments right sides together with the seams running in the same direction.  If you pressed everything toward the dark fabric, the seams will nest together.

8. Now stitch together across the previously made seams.  Stitch both opposite sides.

9. Cut 3-1/2″ from each seamed edge.

10. Press toward the side with the most dark fabric.  Add the unstitched strips to the pieced segments, dark to light.

11. Voila!  You have two mirror image blocks!

Here’s the formula for cutting the squares.  Take the size of the strip that you would cut for a regular nine-patch block and multiply times 3–it’s that simple.  In our example, we would have cut strips 3-1/2″, so 3-1/2″ x 3 is 10-1/2″, the size of our square.

Here’s a chart to make it a little easier.  Block sizes given are for finished blocks.

For 3″ blocks, start with a 4-1/2″ square

For 4-1/2″ blocks, start with a 6″ square

For 6″ blocks, start with a 7-1/2″ square

For 9″ blocks, start with a 10-1/2″ square

For 12″ blocks, start with a 13-1/2″ square

Have fun and be sure to join the Facebook group and post pictures of your blocks!

Sign up for my email newsletter at annalena.com.

If you’re like me, it can be hard to find time to sew in the summer when there are so many distractions.  Well, this summer, why don’t you join The Nine-Patch Project?

What’s the Nine-Patch Project?  There really are no rules.  It’s just a commitment to make one nine-patch block each day this summer!  If you do this from June 1 through August 31, you’ll have 92 nine-patch blocks at the end of summer!

What size should they be?  Make your nine-patches any size you want.  Here are the sizes of squares to cut for various sized blocks:

Cut 1 1/2″ squares for 3″ Blocks
Cut 2″ squares for 4 1/2″ Blocks
Cut 2 1/2″ squares for 6″ Blocks
Cut 3 1/2″ squares for 9″ Blocks
Cut 4 1/2″ squares for 12″ Blocks

What fabric should I use?  Anything goes.  Use all the same fabric, use up strips and squares from your stash.  Surely you must have some.  You can be color controlled or completely scrappy.  You can do light/dark, dark/light, you can use two colors in each block or you can use nine different fabrics in each block.  It’s up to you.

What if I miss a day?  Make two the next!  Miss a week, make seven next week.  C’mon, they’re nine-patches.  Nothing could be easier!  This is a no-stress, anything goes project meant to be nothing but fun.

There’s even a Facebook page where you can sign up to join the fun.  9-Patch Project at Facebook here.  You can post pictures of your blocks and be inspired by the pictures others post.  Several of my web  friends are involved in this project, and in the end, we’ll give you some ideas for setting your blocks together.  Don’t overlook the power of the nine-patch!

Here’s a vintage nine-patch quilt that’s in my collection.  Very scrappy, but every center is yellow.

Here’s my version of the above quilt, just using orange for my centers and setting the blocks on point.

Here’s a controlled scrappy that I saw on the internet.  Again, all the centers are the same.

Here’s another on-point version made by Marla.

I sure hope you’ll join in the fun!

Amy at Park City Girl is having another online quilt show.  I LOVE these.  I love going to all the links and seeing all the quilts.  And I want to play along, too.

Click here to see all the quilts in the show.

This is my Lollipop quilt.  I made it from the fabrics in my Sweet Pea collection.  I just love the bright colors and all the balloons.

Just now, when I went to my photo files to retrieve the photos, I realize I took pictures to do a tutorial about how to make the blocks, but had never posted it, so here goes!

First, I traced the pattern onto paper with a Sharpie pen.  That way, I could see it through the fabric and didn’t have to mark the fabric at all.  I used the iron on bias tape, and pressed it into place.  Once it was secure, I did a serpentine stitch down the length of each one.

I wasn’t looking forward to preparing a gazillion circles for applique, but it wasn’t bad at all.  My method is to cut a circle out of a manilla folder.  Then, I cut the fabric circle about a half inch bigger.  An acrylic template and a 28mm rotary cutter makes it easy.

I just did a running stitch around the outer edge of the fabric circle, placed the paper circle in the middle and pulled the thread.  Voila!  a perfect circle.

It was just a manner of pressing it to get a nice, crisp edge and popping out the paper.

Then I put the block back on the pattern to find the placement of the balloons.

I machine buttonholed around the circles on my Elna 7300.

When doing embroidery of applique, I always start with my background a little larger than needed, so I had to square up when done.

It wasn’t long before I was cranking out the blocks!

Here’s a link to the free download of this pattern.  If you make one, please send me a picture!